TASMANIAN COAST: Matthew Flinders & the Coastal Landforms of SE Australia

What events led to the1798-1799 Norfolk expedition to Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania)? Prior to then, it had been suspected that Tasmania was an island separated from New South Wales by a large body of water. In 1997 George Bass offered to investigate; this was accepted by Governor Hunter, and with a small crew rowed to the northern parts of the area now known as Bass Strait in a longboat. The expedition took place from Dec 1797 to Feb 1798. His work was not conclusive, partly due to difficult conditions experienced in these southern waters. At this time Flinders was otherwise occupied (on the naval business of ship repairs in Sydney), although shortly after he carried out his own survey in Tasmanian waters in the Francis. Incidentally, Flinders had visited Tasmania (Bruny Island) in Feb 1792, as a junior midshipman on board the Providence under the command of Captain William Bligh .
Naming Bass Strait 'The Voyage being now completed, it may not be amiss to take some further notice of the Straits, which was the principal object of it. And it ought to be first observed, that His Excellency, the Governor, named it Bass's Strait, after my worthy friend and Companion; as a just tribute to the extreme dangers & fatigues he had undergone in first entering it in the Whaleboat.' - Matthew Flinders in Norfolk Narrative Flinders and Bass, in the Norfolk, viewed many places and made a number of landings along the coast of Tasmania. Some of these locations, and their associated features, will be mentioned on this Information Page. Others are included on the Hobart-Mt Wellington, Tasman Peninsula, and Tasmanian Highlands Information Pages, and their relevant Activity Pages.
Examples of coastal processes operating along the Tasmanian coastline: Earth movements have been important in producing the water body, Bass Strait (photo right), and major coastal indentations (see photos 2 & 3, Derwent and Macquarie Harbour grabens) that were flooded with rising sea level after the most recent glacial period. Faulting is associated with these landform features. Longshore drift is vital in beach building - this process moves sand eastward along the coast (from foreground to background), driven by the prevailing south-westerly wind and ocean swell. Where rock is more resistant to breakdown, capes and headlands protrude into the sea. At the places where granite, dolerite and basalt outcrops occur along the coast, beaches and rock platforms are less common than elsewhere. The present set of coastal landforms is believed to have developed since the stabilisation of present sea level - a time frame of less than 10,000 years.	'Sandy shore ... Low and sandy shores ... Well wooded and hilly country ...' (from Flinders' chart) Photo 1: Coastline from air, northern Tas
George Bass and Matthew Flinders were honoured by the Australian Government in 1998, two hundred years after their discovery in 1798 that proved Tasmania was an island - their efforts were commemorated on the Australian 50 cent coin see coin
Flinders and Bass spent a considerable amount of time exploring the deep indentation of Port Dalrymple on the north coast. It offered safe berth and a relief from the often harsh conditions of the exposed Bass Strait. Flinders' chart of the area is quite detailed, showing the complexity of the main water body, the arms of the port, tributary rivers (North Esk, South Esk), locations of freshwater streams, and mountain peaks and ranges of the district. Flinders' charting work can be regarded as having largely assisted settlement of what later became known as the Launceston region. ' We found Port Dalrymple to be an excellent place for refreshment ... Kangaroos appeared to be rather numerous in this part of Van Dieman's Land; but as they were shy ... only one was procured ... the flesh was thought superior to that of the same animal at Port Jackson.' - Matthew Flinders in Terra Australis	Flinders' chart, Launceston and area Chart extract, northern Tasmania (Launceston district) [ Flinders acknowledged his use of the 1804 sketch by Mr Collins ]
The Tasmanian coastline contains several major indentations largely attributable to earth movements (tectonic forces). These Tertiary age features, including the Derwent, Macquarie Harbour (photo, right), and Oyster Bay, contribute to Tasmania's shape. They are called grabens, and are bounded by faults. During the peak of the last glacial period sea level was considerably lower than at present (perhaps 80-100 metres lower). The rivers occupying the grabens eroded valleys below present sea level. With the rising of sea level completed by 5,000 years ago, the river systems were drowned, forming wide estuaries, long peninsulas and isolating some hills as islands.	Photo 2: Macquarie Harbour, western Tas The prominent peak in the right background is Frenchman's Cap - a previously glaciated area (of ancient metamorphic rock)
From one part of the west coast Flinders described the near-coastal and interior mountains as: ' ... amongst the most stupendous works of nature I ever beheld ... ' - Matthew Flinders in Norfolk Narrative [12 Dec 1798] Could he have been referring to the hinterland of Macquarie Harbour? (see photo above). No landings were carried out by the sailors of the Norfolk along this dangerous coastline.
Challenges encountered in close coastal surveying of the sailing era Consider the situation of a hydrographer such as Flinders sailing in a small vessel like the Norfolk, or later, in the larger Investigator. Such vessels are dependent upon the wind (its strength and direction) for motive power. Flinders' task of surveying and charting the coastline would, of course, be made easier if his vessel could travel as close to the shore as possible. However, there are some disadvantages in this course; it is essential that a sail-powered vessel does not hit the bottom ; it could expect to become stuck on sand and mud, and very likely suffer damage. If lucky, a grounded vessel might be floated clear by the next high tide (Flinders had such luck in the Investigator at Port Phillip). Striking rocks (or coral) was much worse; this could well cause the destruction of a ship (such as the ends of the Porpoise and Cato at Wreck Reef). As well, if a sailing ship entered a coastal indentation (such as a bay or estuary), its captain must ensure that wind directions will allow it to sail out. If wind bearing was wrong, the ship would run out of room to manoeuvre and lose the ability to tack, thus having to stop (using the anchor) to avoid hitting the shore. Such considerations, at times, limited a surveying ship's ability to pass close to the coast. Of course the Norfolk (25 tons), being much smaller than the Investigator (334 tons), was able to be handled much more readily in a 'tight' situation. The ship's boat (an oared cutter) was often launched from a larger vessel to permit exploration close to the shore in 'safe' waters. At night a sailing ship near the coast needed to stop (at anchor), drift without sail, or continue sailing further from the shore - each option had its disadvantages. In a storm the ship needed to move away from the shore to escape damage, or to gain shelter from the weather in a safe bay. All of this done without computers, GPS and accurate charts! Skill and experience were essential, and at times, luck helped. Reference to Flinders' journal reveals his levels of skill, experience and the odd recourse to good luck (he also suffered from bad luck at times). Read the extracts below which illustrate the challenge of close coastal sailing (a) southwards along the coast of western Tasmania, and (b) heading towards the mouth of the Derwent. Both extracts describe events on the Norfolk expedition. (a) ' The heavy south-west swell ... still continued to roll in ... and the wind blew fresh at WNW ... should the wind come three or four points further forward, there was no probability of clearing the land on either tack ... we therefore carried all possible sail to get past this dreary coast.' - Matthew Flinders in Terra Australis (b) 'At night, the weather looked so wild and unsettled, that I was afraid to anchor on either shore, lest it should become a lee one; we therefore kept beating all night, the wind being in general strong from the S.E ward. Wednesday. 2nd. It was still foul in the morning; when finding that we might be beating about for two or three days, and perhaps not get round Cape Pillar after all, without a fair wind; we ran into the Storm-Bay passage ...' - Matthew Flinders in *Norfolk Narrative* Flinders and Bass were glad to have reached the Derwent estuary and river, and the many sheltered bays of the district. They landed, explored, charted, surveyed and studied the natural history of the area. The Derwent Region is described more fully in the Hobart - Mt Wellington Information Page.

Flinders and Bass, upon leaving the area of the Derwent, sailed northward along the east coast of Tasmania. Flinders' efforts included checking the charts of Tasman, who sailed this part of the coast many years previously. Unfortunately, the time allowed by the Governor had expired, and the Norfolk had to be brought back to Port Jackson (Sydney), thus preventing as detailed a study of the coast as Flinders would have preferred. '... Schouten's Island was passed within two miles at ten o'clock, and at eleven, a piece of land called Vanderlin's Island by Tasman, but which has since been found to be the southern extremity of a peninsula.' *- Matthew Flinders in Terra Australis, 4 Jan 1799*
Freycinet Peninsula, eastern Tas Granite rock outcrops dominate the rugged and spectacular Freycinet Peninsula. The granite masses develop a 'rounded' form, and appear to plunge straight into the sea, with no surrounding rock platforms having developed. Widely jointed granite is a relatively resistant rock, and often forms upland areas. The rock is composed of numerous interlocking crystals of several minerals. Upon its breakdown by weathering, particles of quartz (i.e. sand) remain. In coastal areas much of the sand is eventually shifted and deposited along the shoreline as beach sand.	Photo 3: Freycinet Peninsula, eastern Tasmania
Coastal (and sometimes other) areas, due to their exposure to prevailing winds, are suitable for wind 'harvesting'. Wind is a renewable form of energy. It can cause the huge blades of the generators to rotate, therby producing electrical energy from the motion of air. A large wind farm is to be developed at Bluff Point, NW Tas, a place known to be favourable to wind energy production. [ Note: a large wind farm has also been constructed on the Victorian side of Bass Strait at Toora - see Corner Inlet Page.]	Photo 4: Wind turbines (photo taken in NSW)
' ... my limited time of absence being expired, and provisions nearly out, nothing more could be attempted than what might be done in the way to Port Jackson.' *- Matthew Flinders in Terra Australis, 4 Jan 1799*
In summary ... The voyage of 1778-1779 by Flinders and Bass in the Norfolk proved highly successful. They added greatly to knowledge of Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) and proved that it was an island. Their work helped the later efforts of the British to claim and settle the land. By the time that Flinders published his chart of the area (at the end of his life) the colony in Tasmania was functioning successfully (the names Sullivan's Cove and Hobart Town appearing on the chart).